Chinese barbecue (烧腊, shāolà) — often called “char siu” (叉烧) for its most famous product — is one of the oldest and most beloved culinary traditions in Chinese cooking. From the bustling BBQ streets of Hong Kong to the Cantonese roast meat shops found in Chinatowns worldwide, Chinese-style barbecue represents a unique approach to fire cooking that produces flavors unlike any other barbecue tradition on Earth.
The Char siu Method
True char siu is made from pork shoulder or pork belly, marinated in a mixture of five-spice powder, hoisin sauce, maltose syrup, dark soy sauce, and fermented red fermented bean curd (南乳). The pork is then skewered — traditionally on long iron forks (叉, hence the name) — and roasted in a closed oven at high temperature. The maltose in the marinade caramelizes, creating the signature glossy, lacquered, reddish-brown exterior.
The Four Great Roast Meats
Cantonese roast meat shops typically offer four signature items:
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Char siu (叉烧): BBQ pork — sweet, savory, and smoky, with a characteristic reddish glaze.
Siu Ying (烧鹅): Roast goose — the pinnacle of Cantonese BBQ, made with a special marinade and served with plum sauce. Historically, goose was the meat of the Cantonese aristocracy.
Siu Ya (烧鸭): Roast duck — a more affordable alternative to goose, with crispier skin and gamier flavor.
Roast Pork (烧肉): Crispy-skin pork belly — the skin is scored with a knife, marinated, then roasted until every centimeter of skin puffs into a bubble of crunchy crackling.
Chinese BBQ Beyond Canton
Cantonese char siu is the most internationally known, but Chinese BBQ traditions vary dramatically by region:
In Xinjiang, lamb skewers (羊肉串) seasoned with cumin and chili have become one of China’s most popular street foods.
In Inner Mongolia, whole lambs are roasted in underground pits — a cooking method that dates back centuries.
In Sichuan, “包浆豆腐” (smoked tofu) and grilled eggplant with garlic sauce represent the region’s take on BBQ.
How Chinese BBQ Shops Work
A typical Cantonese roast meat shop is a simple, no-frills operation: a glass display case filled with glistening meats hanging under heat lamps, a counter where the shopkeeper carves meat to order, and a few plastic stools for customers who want to eat immediately. Many shops have been in the same family for three or four generations.
For a broader exploration of Chinese regional food traditions, visit our Chinese Food Complete Guide — the definitive English-language guide to Chinese cuisine.
Featured image: Glistening char siu pork hanging in a traditional Cantonese roast meat shop in Hong Kong. Image: Cyber China Editorial.
